BALLARAYANA DURGA AND BANDAJJE FALLS TREK
That was the third phone call which Guru had made to Narayana Gowdru of Bandajje. In the first two, we got a negative feedback of visiting Ballarayana Durga because of the rains. But it was Guru who kept in touch with Gowdru about the weather forecast. The third call gave positive news of rains having stopped; the weather conditions were perfect for the much awaited trek.
I still remember me and Guru having yummy masala poori at ‘gullus chat’ in Sheshadripuram. It was pouring heavily that day. The rain droplets made us think about the Western Ghats.
Guru: If it’s raining like this in Bangalore, think about the intensity in Western Ghats!!!
Me: True. Hey shall we call up Narayana Gowdru of Bandajje?
Guru: Hmmm... Yes. We still have seven days left for our next weekend. We can plan out for the trek if there are no rains.
Talking about the rains in Western Ghats, it reminds me of my childhood days which I spent in Coorg for eight years. The schools in Coorg often declared holidays for the obvious reasons. It would rain for days together and Kushalnagar, the place where I stayed looked the most beautiful in that particular season.
2ND OCTOBER
Guru: Namskara Narayana Gowdruge, how are you? How’s the weather?
Gowdru: Namaskara. The rains have stopped and the trekkers have already started. There were 2 teams which went up just 2 days ago and I have sent 2 of my guides.
Guru: Oh that’s nice. So we shall plan out for the next weekend that is on 8th and 9th.
Gowdru: Hmmm!!! That should be fine. By the way, how many of you are coming?
Guru: May be 4-6. I will let you know once it is decided.
Gowdru: Fine. Hope to see you soon. Take care.
The news from Gowdru pumped both of us and made me spread the word around my usual trek gang. A week before, Dilip and I had discussed on going for a weekend trek to Amedikallu or Ettina bhuja. However I had declined the idea since I had already visited the place earlier.
Me: Dude, I have good news for you. Guess what?
Dilip: Are you going abroad? Really? Enjoy madi (Have fun)
Me: Wait!!!!
Dilip: You are getting married then. Thank god. There will be no one to bug me from now on!!!!
Me: Wait and listen to me.
Dilip: Ok, go on.
Me: Next weekend, we are going to Ujire, Ballarayana durga and Bandajje falls trek.
Dilip: That’s cool. By the way, where is Ujire?
It took me more than 20 minutes to explain the details of the trek and finalize the list of people who would join. Finally a group of seven that included me, Guru, Dilip, Vikas, Sumanth, Rajesh and Seena packed our bags with clothes and food required for 2 days and boarded the bus to Ujire.
8th OCTOBER 2011-10-26
5.30 in the morning, Ujire could see 7 heads, each of them holding a cup of hot coffee in their left hand and a bun in their right. Yes, our day began like this in a small shop in Ujire that served hot coffee with buns. Next, we had to take a 15 km – 45 min jeep ride from Ujire to Bandajje.
We were welcomed by a huge estate house which belonged to Narayana Gowda. One could sight an antique Mahindra tempo in front of the house and at the other end, a tent like structure which carried coffee seeds. The house looked colourful with the variety of paints used to decorate it. There were hibiscus flowers of almost every colour in and around the house. The pillars of the house stood majestic as Narayana Gowda invited us and offered breakfast with tea. The next half an hour we listened to Narayana Gowda who talked about he enacting in an old kannada movie as a drunkard, his house being part of the shooting of “ Chigurida Kanasu “ (a Kannada movie) and him currently presiding over as the GramPanchayat head. Sundar, our guide for the next 2 days was waiting in the canopy. To me he looked strange with his pitch dark blue full armed T-shirt, a formal pant with Hawai slippers. He had a bag with REEBOK symbol painted on it. Like all city geeks, the first question which stuck my mind was ‘Is that original? ‘ !!!! His bag was so small that even a single jacket wouldn’t fit into it. In contrast, we were seven guys who wore shorts, funky T-shirts and each one carried an almost 20 litre bag which didn’t even have an inch of free space left. We greeted our host and his family and started our journey.
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View in front of Gowdru mane |
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Greenery everywhere !!! |
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Gowdru mane interior. |
A small way up just beside the house took us into the dense forest. We could sight two more estate houses, each a kilometre apart. On our way, Sundar spoke about the toughness of the trek and advised us to maintain a good pace. According to him, peaks like Kumaraparvatha and Kodachadri are cake walks in front of Ballarayana durga. As usual, the fit guys of Hoskote led by Seena and Dilip were at the front. The target was to reach our destination before dawn.
Vikas, also known to be ‘the glucose baby’ of the gang was surprisingly not carrying glucose this time. However my surprise lasted only for a few seconds when he took out ‘Gatorade’ (an energy drink) from his Wildcraft bag.
Me: You can’t walk without these energy drinks. Can you?
Vikas: Doesn’t matter unless I am making it on time.
Me: Good. How come no glucose this time?
Vikas: People ask for change, my friend. Can’t you see, glucose is been upgraded to Gatorade.
Me: I have never tasted it. Can I take a sip?
Vikas: No ways!!!! I can’t afford to finish it by doing charity!!!!
“DHAMAAAAR”!!!!! There was a huge noise just 500 mts away from us. Later we came to know that it was our guide who used a cracker atom bomb to scare away the elephants. His Reebok bag contained atom bombs and a small match box in it. On the way, we could not see any elephants; however it’s dung was visible everywhere. Around 12.20 pm, it was time for our first break. Delicious Mysore pak and Dates burfi filled our mouth. After resting for a few minutes and a quick photo session, the journey resumed.
Guide Sundar, Dilip, Seena and Rajesh increased their pace and they went almost 2 kms far away from rest of the team. Me, Guru, Sumanth and Vikas were taking a lazy walk.
Me: These guides are amazing man!!! Their stamina is extra-ordinary.
Sumanth: Give me a break. What is the difficulty in moving fast carrying such a small bag? Make him walk lifting my bag. Let’s see how fast he can move.
Me: That’s not true. They are adjusted to this style of living; hard work and stamina run in their veins.
Vikas: It’s not stamina, Gatorade. Gatorade is in their veins!!!!
There was a deep conversation between Vikas and Guru related to IT and people in software industry. Vikas, who once was an IT techie had switched jobs and now is a supply chain analyst. He almost turned into an Amitabh Bachan, firing questions at Guru. Questions such as – why parents in India want their children to become software engineers? Even people who study mechanical or chemical go to software field? Is software not boring after sometime? What are the options after B.E? What kind of higher studies one can take up? Is US economy going down day by day? Guru with 11 odd years of experience in IT was able to convince him with his sharp answers. Sumanth I and just remained spectators in that show!!!
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On the way to falls. |
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Wake up Sumanth !!!! |
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1 more km left !!! |
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Water streams on the way. |
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One more !!! |
It was 3.30 in the afternoon. Clouds began to accumulate and it felt it could pour heavily. The concern was we didn’t carry tents. The past five days had reported no rains. The Sun began to sink inside the clouds and it became extremely dark. Quickly we had chapattis with tomato chutney for lunch and headed towards Bandajje falls. From a kilometre away, we had the first glimpse of the water fall. It looked extremely beautiful from that distance. Sundar gave us an alarming notice that we should reach our destination soon and within one hour, we were at the falls.
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First glimpse of Bandajje falls. |
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Nice click by Vikas. |
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And a bit of posing as well !!! |
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Fantastic View. |
We had to cross a stream on a bridge like structure that Sundar had created. This had 3 bamboo trunks for support. Everyone crossed the stream EXCEPT Guru and Vikas. WITHIN NO TIME SOMETHING INTERESTING HAPPENED. The force of water increased tremendously and crystal clear water turned muddy. The water force made the Bridge lose its grip and wash away in the water. This meant Guru and Vikas couldn’t cross the stream until another bridge was built!!! A bit of anxiety filled inside me as questions started popping in my mind. When will the water force come down? Can Sundar build another bridge? How long Guru and Vikas should be standing at the other end? If the water force does not decrease, what’s next? Isn’t there any other way they could cross the stream? Sundar reasoned out the increase in the water force. He said there might have been heavy rains somewhere far away and this was the reason why clear water had become muddy. The scene looked similar to that of Patni video which I had watched on facebook. Sundar had to wait for 2 hours until the water force decreased and within no time he cut 4 bamboo trees with his knife, tied all 4 together with an iron thread, and made a nice looking bridge. In the mean time, Seena, Sumanth and Rajesh fell asleep on huge boulders on the other end of the stream. They looked like lazy crocodiles that had just bathed in the water and exposed their bodies to sunlight.
It was 5.30 in the evening when all of us were sitting near the edge of the water fall and waiting for the sunset. Suddenly I was shocked seeing four men walking towards us. They wore monkey caps; their red colored eyes frightened the rest. The most shocking part was they carried guns with them!!!! At the first go, anyone would have felt they were terrorists or naxals. Later they introduced themselves as the local hunters who had come from a nearby village in search of food. They were pissed off since they couldn’t find anything on that particular day. However a broad sarcastic smile of one of the hunter made me wonder if we were their prey. Luckily all went well and within no time Seena’s camera clicked a photo of mine holding the gun posing as if I am a shooter by profession!!!!
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The gunman. |
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Misty. |
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Sunset about to happen. |
Dinner on day 1 had to be maggi. In the mean time, another guide Viswa had also joined us. Campfire lit by Sundar and Viswa kick-started the cooking process. Sumanth and Seena began cutting onions and potatoes. The Rest of them were busy in
finding us a place to sleep. Dilip was cutting dry grass and was spreading them to form a cushion. I have maggi almost twice a week in Bangalore. But the taste of Maggi after a hard day’s trek is no match to the one we have in the comfort of our dining room. After yummy maggi treat with knoor soup, all our faces looked at the sky. One thing pricked everyone’s mind that it could rain. Sundar was 100% sure that it would. And yes, Sundar was right. It started drizzling and we did not have tents. No other option was left other than to get drenched in the rain. I squeezed myself inside the sleeping bag like a rat!!!! It poured for 2 odd hours and it was a nightmare that we were waiting for an end.
9TH OCTOBER
My plan of waking up early to watch the sunrise went in vain when my morning began only at 7.00 am. The day was perfect with cool breeze. Muddy water was clear by then. After some hot tea, a long bath and playing in the falls, we started for our next destination –Ballarayana durga fort. The route to Ballarayana durga is extremely good with four kms of grassland. One could see the mountain ranges; and the sholas (i.e., forests between 2 mountains) looked great. We met another group who had started from other end of the fort. It took 2 hours to reach the peak. On the way, misty peaks got us confused and Seena almost missed his path until Sundar guided him back on the right way. The broken fort of Ballarayana durga has a long history. The place which once belonged to a king named Ballaraya was later acquired by Tippu. Tippu used to spend his summer months on the mountains. However now, there exist only the remains of the fort along with Tippu’s memories.
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Sholas. |
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View from the fort. |
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A wider view from the fort. |
We spent at least one precious hour at the peak and the return journey towards Sunkasale began – a 17 km hike. By the time we reached Sunkasale, it was 3.30 pm. With coffee and vada at a local shop, we greeted our guides and headed towards Horanadu. Our journey ended with a darshan of Devi Annaporneshwari and a prasadam dinner at the temple. It was time for us to board the 9.15 Rajahamsa which would take us back to our routine. All charged up though.
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The group. |
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Horanadu temple. |
The diversity which Western Ghats offers is extremely vast. It takes years to cover the whole of Western Ghats and even after that, one wouldn’t be confident of having explored the region to the fullest. However, anytime you visit, the mountains won’t disappoint and it would for sure be an everlasting experience.